The quaint walled city of San Francisco de Campeche sits in its namesake state just over two hours from Merida. This makes it the perfect place for a day trip or an overnight stay.
Another thing that ticks all the boxes is there are so many things to do in Campeche. You should know upfront, that there are no beaches in Campeche.
Visitors are always enchanted by the rows of pastel-coloured houses stretching down historic streets and by the gentle pace of life within the ancient walls.
Whilst Campeche is certainly a popular destination, its small size and out-of-the-way location have allowed it to retain a quiet charm which makes it a wonderful place to unwind for a day or two.
Oh, and did I mention it has a history of piracy?
It was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997.
So if you decide to visit this gem of a city, what will you do and how will you spend your time? As a huge fan of Campeche and a frequent visitor, in this Campeche blog I’ve mapped out a schedule that will help you decide what to do in this fascinating city.
This will hopefully help you to make the most of your time there and fall in love with the city as I did.
*This list assumes you’ll want to stay in and around the old city and will be exploring on foot.
A little over an hour away from Merida and just off the highway lies the town of Bécal. It is famous for its artisanal products made of jipijapa (pronounced hee-pee-huh-puh. Isn’t that fun to say?).
Jijijapa is a plant fibre derived from palms and is used to make a variety of products. The most famous of which is the sombrero de jipi, or as you probably know it, the Panama hat.
What makes these hats so unique is the way they are produced – underground in cool caves to keep the fibres moist.
If you have time, you can go into the town itself which is a short drive down a dirt road off the main highway. Alternatively, if you’re short on time, you can simply go to the tourist stop directly off the highway.
Not only will this save you time, but you’ll also avoid being stalked around town by overeager salesmen on bicycles trying to lure you to their hat factories.
At the tourist stop you’ll find a handful of shops offering products at prices every bit as good as in town.
Just behind the shops is a little cave that is sometimes open to tourists and that gives you an idea of where the hats are made. There are also restrooms there if you need them.
Yay, you’ve made it to Campeche! If you’ve arrived before the heat of the day, now is a great time to stroll along the seaside promenade, or malecón, and take in the sea views.
Don’t miss a photo op with the letters of Campeche. There’s even a little sticker on the floor to help you know where the best angle for the photo is.
Also worth wandering down is the nearby pier where the eye-catching Angél Maya statue reaches almost 30m into the sky. It dominates the Campeche Malecon near the major hotels.
While it’s still a little cool, head into the old walled city via the Sea Gate and explore the pretty little streets. If you’re a fan of architecture or a keen photographer, you’ll be in your element.
Every nook and corner holds some treasure for the artistic eye. The city is laid out in a grid pattern making it easy to keep track of your bearings.
Most of the streets are quiet and empty, meaning you can take your time strolling and taking in the sights or getting just the right photo.
You’ll stumble across plazas, saffron-coloured churches, statues, and of course plenty of colourful colonial facades.
By now it’s heating up and you’ve probably worked up an appetite.
There are a variety of places to choose from for great Campeche food.
If you’re not sure where to eat in Campeche, aim for Calle 59.
Most restaurants can be found on Calle 59, and some of the best restaurants in Campeche are here. But there are many others dotted about. So keep your eyes open as you tour Campeche on foot.
Our favourite place is Santo Taquito y Otros Milagritos which sells, in my opinion, the best tacos in Campeche. While in a seaside city, you may as well try the seafood and I highly recommend the coconut shrimp and camarones al pastor tacos.
What food is Campeche known for? It claims to be the home of Coconut Prawns (or shrimps). It has the honor of naming an octopus dish after Sir Francis Drake. This famous English buccaneer captured the city briefly in the 1600s.
You can also try other specialties like pan de cazón (dogfish) or pulpo a las brasas (octopus).
With so many things to see in Campeche, one option for staying out of the midday sun is to go souvenir shopping. There are enough stores along Calle 59 and the roads branching off of it to keep you occupied for a while.
Some stores sell high-end boutique clothing, artisanal products from the state of Campeche, and regional artworks from other areas of Mexico.
There’s also the time-honoured tourist tchotchke available like ‘I heart Campeche’ items and delightfully tacky coconut pirate heads.
You’ll also come across items made of palm fibre and think ‘Ha, I paid half the price for that in the tourist stop at Bécal. Thank goodness I read this incredibly useful blog.’
If you’ve completed your shopping, stroll along to the Xmuch’haltún Botanic Gardens. They are small, being housed within the walls of a small fort. The cost is only MXN10 and it’s worth a quick look.
If you’d like to learn more about the history of the area including its connection to pirates as well as the ancient Mayans who first inhabited the land, then you need to visit various museums dotted around the city, some of which are located in the bastions of the wall.
Be sure to double-check the opening and closing times of these museums as they can vary.
As a Brit with a day in Campeche, afternoon tea is a necessity and there’s only so much shopping or history one can take. Now is the right time to rest your legs and reenergize with a cuppa and a tasty treat. Head to Chocol-Ha at the end of Calle 59 toward the Land Gate.
This café, as you may have guessed from the name, specializes in chocolate. The bright yellow and blue entrance gives way to a cosy reading room-style interior which in turn leads out to an enclosed garden space.
On the menu, you can find the usual coffee and teas as well as a variety of chocolate drinks and pastries.
The foyer houses a good selection of artisanal chocolates, local products like scented soaps, and liquors like the anise-flavoured Xtabentún, all of which make perfect gifts to take back home.
One of Campeche’s defining characteristics is the wall surrounding the city. Once used to protect the city from pirate attacks, the ramparts are now more accustomed to the footsteps of tourists than those of soldiers.
Sunset is the perfect time to explore the walls as the heat of the day in Campeche has worn off and the view of the sun setting behind the city and filling the sky with rosy clouds makes for some great photos.
As you wander, you’ll see bulwarks and large, rusted cannons that once kept the city safe. Not only that, but you get an aerial view of the town and a peek behind the crumbling but colourful facades. Plus, at the end, you get to ring the big brass bell at the top of the wall, and that’s just fun.
This street really comes to life at night. Here you’ll find some of the best restaurants in Campeche.
Stringed lights zigzag between the rooftops and restaurants that may have been shut in the afternoon are now all open for business with tables and chairs filling the cobbled street. The atmosphere is great and there are many options to choose from whether you fancy Italian, steak, seafood, or Mexican.
After dinner, head over to Casa Vieja del Rio to find the perfect spot for a nightcap. The entrance to this restaurant is tucked away in the arcades running down one side of the main plaza. Find the doorway, head up the tiled staircase and behold Casa Vieja in all its quirky glory. Chequered floors, lavender and pink walls chock-a-block with art, and even a bicycle hanging from the ceiling all make it charmingly eclectic.
The real draw, however, is the balcony outside. It has the best and only aerial view of the plaza. Even better is the fact that most of the time the balcony is either almost or completely empty, making it feel like your own private terrace.
Sipping a cocktail while enjoying the nighttime breeze and the view over the gently lit plaza offers the perfect ending to the perfect day in Campeche.
There are many things to do in Campeche, Mexico. But Campeche has more to offer that what’s within the city walls.
Campeche city is the capital of the state of Campeche. It has a completely different feel to Merida, which is in the state of Yucatan. It feels more organised and calmer. Both are in the Yucatan Peninsula, which is very flat.
By the time you travelled west across the Yucatan Peninsula as far as Campeche, you will start to see hills.
Near to Campeche city are the Mayan ruins of Edzna. If you get a chance, these are well worth a visit. The archaeological site there is different to Chichen Itza and you can avoid the crowds that plague Chichen Itza.
The roads from Merida to Campeche are excellent. It’s worth a road trip that takes you to the west of the city, where you’ll get good views of the Gulf of Mexico.
And there you have it- the perfect day in Campeche. Did you do any of the things on this list? Share your thoughts in the comments.
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